Neopolitan Tank with Floral Trim | New Look 6285

I sewed a tank with ice cream colored stripes and vintage floral trim!

New Look 6285 in neutral stripes with vintage floral trim

This neopolitan tank is a redo. I read that size chart for New Look 6285 was waaaayy off when I made the first tank, so I sized down each time. For my second attempt I needed to do a full bust adjustment and I would’ve had the perfect tank.

But I didn’t end up with a perfect tank, due to laziness and cheap fabric. Mostly laziness, because I didn’t do a real FBA. More about that in a minute…

Sewing a yoked tank with vintage floral trim

I decided to use the yoked version of New Look 6285, and use some of my grandmas vintage lace stash to decorate the front. The plan was a line of crochet flowers across the seam. All was good in the world, until this:

Vintage Floral Crochet Trim

Do you see the little hole underneath the two flowers? I think it was from a pin. I used Wonder Clips* after that!  Anyhow, I only had four flowers left so I had to improvise placement.

Vintage floral crochet trim

So I ended up with this asymetrical boob thing. Which is okaaayyyy, but I liked it better before the hole. I didn’t stitch all the way around the flowers, I’m hoping they’ll stick out in a few places after I wash it.  Or is that weird?

Neopolitan Tank with Vintage Floral Trim | New Look 6285

^Sucking in as hard as I can^

While your eyes are burning from the bang-up stripe matching job, let me get back to my botched full bust adjustment. I simply sized up a bit on top and raised the armcye. I didn’t even retrace the pattern, I just laid it down and cut it where I imagined it needed to be cut. In my defense, that method works fairly often!

New Look 6285 with vintage floral trim

You can see drag lines in almost every photo.  The bust really isn’t big enough, and the armcye was a disaster. It was side-boob city. I salvaged that by using elastic lace for the arm openings, and pulling it pretty tightly across the bottom. That was a suggestion I got from a friend via email, and it helped a ton.

New Look 6285

It’ll do, but it’s not my best work. As we improve our sewing skills we get more persnickety about the fit and details of garments. I sort of miss not knowing better, sometimes.

New Look 6285

Are you hyper-critical of your work? Has sewing affected your shopping? I’ve barely made any RTW purchases in the last year because I can see all the mechanical flaws. And fit- I see fit issues that I don’t even know how to correct yet. Feel free to weigh in!

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Silk Kimono + My Fabric Designs

This silk kimono is epic. I love the movement, the length, and most of all the fabric!!

New Look 6378 Silk Kimono; fabric available exclusively at My Fabric Designs

I used silk crepe de chine from My Fabric Designs. I designed this print and (I really shouldn’t brag but) I think it’s gorgeous. It’s nice to be getting some Me-Mades into my closet.

New Look 6378 silk kimono, fabric available only at My Fabric Designs

I planned to wear this silk kimono with a flowy tank, shorts, and sandals. That will have to wait for a bit, because the weather isn’t cooperating. Turns out, it looks great with jeans and boots too:)

Sam Edelman Boots

Don’t deny it; you love these boots. Sam Edelman from a couple seasons ago. I need to brush the suede! 

New Look 6378 Silk Kimono; fabric available only at My Fabric Designs

I didn’t have enough yardage to bind the outer edges of my silk kimono. I trimmed the circumference with elastic lace, dyed to match of course. So obsessed with lingerie elastic and Rit DyeMore right now.

French seams in silk crepe de chine

I used French seams which make it look really clean and pretty inside. I did have enough fabric to bind the armholes, in case you were wondering:)

New Look 6378 silk Kimono

I’m enjoying sewing with silk, it’s not as fussy as I thought. Also, surprisingly stain resistant…

This is kind of gross, but I’m going to tell you anyways. Remember when I showed you my beat up hands on Instagram? Well one of those cuts opened up while I was sewing. I didn’t notice for several minutes…it was the finger I use to guide fabric through the pressor foot.

New Look 6378 silk kimono; fabric available only at My Fabric Designs

OMG, blood all over my silk kimono! Panic ensued. I dabbed it with a q-tip and peroxide and rinsed it really quickly with cold water. Zero damage, can you believe? I guess silk is more filth-friendly than I realized; which is good. My kids are animals; plus, a ruined silk kimono would’ve been worse than losing my barn in this tornado.

New Look 6378 silk kimono; fabric available exclusively at My Fabric Designs

I’m so glad I didn’t make the practical hip length version, even though I had to sacrifice the sleeves to get it. Wearing my frivolous length kimono makes me feel like I don’t have a care in the world.

New Look 6378 Silk Kimono; fabric available exclusively at My Fabric Designs

It might even be giving me delusions of grandeur. Have you ever owned a garment that gives you unhealthy doses of self esteem?

New Look 6378 Silk Kimono with My Fabric Designs

Fabric: Ocean View by Amy Mayen, in silk crepe de chine available exclusively at My Fabric Designs

Pattern: New Look 6378

Disclosure: My Fabric Designs provided the fabric for this garment. If you purchase one of my designs, I recieve a 15% commission. If you’re interested in designing fabric, you should sign up too!

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New Look 6115 For Easter

Pattern: New Look 6115 Fabric: Emma’s Garden line by Patsy Sloniger 

New Look 6115 in Michael Miller floral This is a little dress I made in between projects. I needed an easy sew to cleanse my palette! Girls floral dress I won this fabric in a Michael Miller giveaway at Coffee & Thread. I love Olga’s blog, and her patterns are to die for. (I plan to make the Antalya dress soon.) New Look 6115 Sof was so cute while I took pictures. She was running around looking at all the first blooms of spring, comparing the colors to her dress. New Look 6125 in Micael Miller fabric I’m nostalgic as I write this post. I’ve made New Look 6115 for my niece before. Look how tiny she was in this gray and yellow version! New Look 6115- great for coordinating prints I know I should be talking about the dress, but all I can think of is how I said I was going to make this pattern dozens of times for Sofia. But now she’s on the last size. And my daughter is growing out of most of my kids patterns in her size range. I guess that’s why I’ve changed gears and started focusing on women’s wear this year… So I’ll be prepared to sew their wedding dresses next time I blink. Sniff. New Look 6115 How fast we grow up, and forget the joy of skipping around barefooted in the mud. Okay, now I’m just getting dramatic. I’ll stop. New Look 6115 in Michael Miller I didn’t get any construction pics, so you’ll have to take my word that I made this dress beautifully. I made French seams throughout, and hand basted the zipper before sewing it. My zippers are rarely perfect, but this one is a lot closer. I lose points for not matching the center back, but who’s counting? The only changes I made to the pattern was to add a button loop closure above the zipper, and add a 1.5″ to the hem allowance. That way I can let it out when she grows. Which she will. Sniff, again. New Look 6115- Easter dress! I think New Look 6115 is a perfect Easter dress. I wish I could get my 11 year old in dresses and make matching cousin-wear! New Look 6115 I have a little bit of the purple floral and about a half yard of the stripes. A matching bow has been requested, and I may sneak some time for a pair of paper bag shorts to wear under. I better hurry- The dress fits perfectly which means we’ll be lucky if she can still wear it mid summer!

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New Look 6378 | 70’s Inspired Kimono

New Look 6378 Pattern Review | 70's Inspired Kimono

Here’s my New Look 6378 pattern review.

New Look 6378 Pattern Review | 70's Inspired Kimono

Before I start, I feel the need to disclaim. I sewed this kimono for spring; this is not how I would style it in real life. I’d pair it with a tank and jeans or shorts, and some sandals. Not a long sleeve thermal and work boots!

New Look 6378 Pattern Review | 70's Inspired Kimono

New Look 6378 includes top, tunic, and duster length. Choose from sleeveless or “just past the elbow” sleeves, and a curved or straight hem. The center back curves in to create some gentle shaping.

New Look 6378 Pattern Review | 70's Inspired Kimono

Size:This project is a gift, and I sewed a medium for the recipient. The size chart is true, so when I make my kimono I’ll use large or possibly extra large.

New Look 6378 Pattern Review | 70's Inspired Kimono

Overall, I’m very pleased with this pattern. It’s a quick, satisfying sew. I’m not a fan of kimono length sleeves though. The odd length makes me feel like I have inhumanly long arms. I was able to eek out a couple more inches on the sleeves, but that made the sleeves even more awkward. That wasn’t my only problem with this project. I want to make very clear that my issues were due to fabric choice and not the fault of New Look 6378. I’ll be sewing this again.

New Look 6378 Pattern Review | 70's Inspired Kimono

I had a nasty surprise when I performed a burn test and found out this fabric wasn’t the dreamy stuff I thought it was. If you look closely above, you can see the little snag that added insult to injury. It’s left of the center back seam, and it looked much worse right side out.

New Look 6378 Pattern Review | 70's Inspired Kimono

I added a back yoke to cover it, because I’m too stubborn to quit. I really love this gauzy, funky vintage print! But the pattern placement is off center…those 3 flowers should’ve been in the middle. I didn’t even notice until I had already basted and sewed the entire thing. So I was thrice pissed.

New Look 6378 Pattern Review | 70's Inspired Kimono

Modifications:

-Lengthened the sleeves by a few inches, that turned out weird.

-Added a back yoke, and the print is off center.

-Used French seams for the first time, as per Justine suggests in her pattern review. I’m happy I learned something new, but next time I’ll aim for really narrow, sexy French seams.

-Hemmed the edges by folding over twice and top stitching. My weird pink fabric was strangely accommodating. There’s kind of a funny hanging spot in the hem below, but it has relaxed and looks really nice now. I think fold over binding would look best, but that’s a lot of bias tape to make.

-Curved the center back seam in about another inch.

New Look 6378 Pattern Review | 70's Inspired Kimono

Textile choice is key for this kimono. Choose a light, flowy fabric. I love the movement in the next pic, although I’m not sure why I’m throwing up gang signs. What is that?!

New Look 6378 Pattern Review | 70's Inspired Kimono

I think I’m on a streak of bad sewing luck. My next project has print placement issues too. Have you guys been having trouble getting back in the groove of things this year?

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New Look 6285 & Fave Women’s Sewing Blogs

New Look 6285

My muslin for New Look 6285 needs a full bust adjustment. I guess I should probably assume a FBA in most patterns; but I haven’t made many of my own shirts so I’m still learning by trial and error. Mostly error.

Scroll to the bottom to see a few of my favorite women’s clothing sewing blogs, especially if you’re needing inspiration, like me lately.

New Look 6285, muslin with pocket.

According to the fitting chart I’m a size 16, but the pattern reviews all said this pattern runs huge. I determined (based on how much other sewists sized down) that I should make a size 12. For reference, if you sew New Look 6285, that’s pretty close to my RTW size. I don’t always read reviews for commercial patterns, but it’s needs to be habit if I’m going to make things that fit really well.

New Look 6285

I can’t believe I’ve joined the ranks of muslin makers. I wrote that post about common fit issues in clothing and realized I’m going to have to get all serious. It feels very adulty. Here are 2 articles that I found most helpful for knit FBAs:

How To Do A Full Bust Adjustment On A Dartless Shirt Paprika Patterns.

How To Do A Full Bust Adjustment For Fitted Knit Patterns Jennifer Lauren Vintage

New Look 6285

No telling when I’ll get around to fixing this pattern; I’ve been procastinating for over a week. I’m debating cutting straight into the tissue paper and retracing the whole front piece. Do y’all proper sewists hack your original pattern to shreds; or trace, hack, and trace again?

New Look 6285

If you’re an experienced sewist, you can probably gauge (by the amount of orange bra hanging out) that this is going to be a good sized adjustment. I’m reading that extreme FBAs create a bigger, nastier dart than a moderate adjustment would. Some choose to sew the dart closed, and others ease it out of the pattern. I think a dart would look funny and create stress on a knit garment…so extra work for me. But hey, I made a decent pocket!

image

Sorry to complain a lot. I just wish the world would accommodate my every need. I’m betting I’ll be able to full bustisize any pattern without a thought soon…it just seems annoying right now though. Why can’t I get my butt in gear?! At least once it’s done, I’ll have a perfect tank block. I wear the same t-shirts and tanks 99% of the time, so I’d like to have a good set of blocks for basic tops by next year. That’s the plan!

I wasn’t always interested in women’s sewing, kids clothes are cuter and more straightforward. Maybe I’m preparing for the inevitable. My little girl is starting to fit smaller women’s sizes in stores and patterns. At least by the time my baby niece decides to grow up, I’ll be a seasoned pro! I’ve been following more women’s wear sewing blogs. It helps to see that most of us have an adjustment or two that we make all the time, and it becomes second nature.

Here are a few blogs I’ve been loving. Some are seasoned women’s garment sewists,  some are childrens clothing makers dipping their feet into selfish sewing, and some are masters of both worlds. I made a little graphic in case you want to pin it for later. These blogs are good reading, I promise.

Women's Sewing Blogs You Will Love: If you ever get tired of blogs always trying to sell you something, photoshopped perfectness, and syndicated team bloggers; check out these blogs. They are still sharing a love of sewing without all the consumerism.

Work Pray Sew– Angela mostly sews for her youngest daughter which appeases my desire for cuteness. But she’s also sort of eased me into sewing women’s wear. We joke that we like boring basic clothing; ie highly functional wardrobes. She dabbles, now I dabble too. Check out some of her women’s projects here.

Megan Nielson Design Diary– Love her writing style. Really nice photos and in depth tutorials. She also designs edgy patterns that are feminine, with a sometimes vintage vibe. She isn’t trying to sell you something every minute,  just sharing a love of sewing. That’s getting kinda rare among bloggers and designers.

Feather’s Flights- I started reading Heather’s blog for the cute kids clothes, but I’m seeing more women’s clothing than when I started reading a couple years ago. Perhaps I’m just paying more attention now that I’m tackling new things. Either way, I love her projects. I’d say Heather’s style perfectly toes the line of modest and stylish, and she veers towards classic pieces that won’t go out of style like fast trends.

Cookin’ & Craftin’  Meg sews mostly for herself, and it’s glorious. She makes wearable, well fitting clothing and has a collection of gorgeous fabrics from various places in the world that I’ve never been. You’ll see casual and dressier pieces, but on her most casual day she is dressed better way than me! You’ll fall in love with her contagious smile and witty posts.

Sew Country Chick- Justine is a badass. I said it. She’s not afraid to tear into leather working, fine silks, tricky sportswear…trying new things just doesn’t phase her. I love that she doesn’t jump off the cliff just because everyone else does; in fact she tends to march firmly in the opposite direction of the masses. You’ll find her studying old draping books and nearly extinct sewing techniques, and sourcing estate sales for fabric. She’s usually a few steps ahead of the sewing blog world, although I don’t think she quite realizes it.

Rebel & Malice- Melissa will keep you up on the latest patterns, but her punk rock, Latin flavor will make you look at them a different way. She has 5 beautiful kids that she sews for regularly, but I’ve been living for her selfish sewing. Her blog is a sewing chronicle with occasional glimpses of her life, and she’s quite endearing. You can count on her to voice her opinion, stand up for what she believes in, and to always stay rebellious.

I’m sure I’m missing out on any good blogs for women’s sewing. I haven’t been looking long enough! Do you have a favorite blog to share?

 

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