My muslin for New Look 6285 needs a full bust adjustment. I guess I should probably assume a FBA in most patterns; but I haven’t made many of my own shirts so I’m still learning by trial and error. Mostly error.
Scroll to the bottom to see a few of my favorite women’s clothing sewing blogs, especially if you’re needing inspiration, like me lately.
According to the fitting chart I’m a size 16, but the pattern reviews all said this pattern runs huge. I determined (based on how much other sewists sized down) that I should make a size 12. For reference, if you sew New Look 6285, that’s pretty close to my RTW size. I don’t always read reviews for commercial patterns, but it’s needs to be habit if I’m going to make things that fit really well.
I can’t believe I’ve joined the ranks of muslin makers. I wrote that post about common fit issues in clothing and realized I’m going to have to get all serious. It feels very adulty. Here are 2 articles that I found most helpful for knit FBAs:
How To Do A Full Bust Adjustment On A Dartless Shirt Paprika Patterns.
How To Do A Full Bust Adjustment For Fitted Knit Patterns Jennifer Lauren Vintage
No telling when I’ll get around to fixing this pattern; I’ve been procastinating for over a week. I’m debating cutting straight into the tissue paper and retracing the whole front piece. Do y’all proper sewists hack your original pattern to shreds; or trace, hack, and trace again?
If you’re an experienced sewist, you can probably gauge (by the amount of orange bra hanging out) that this is going to be a good sized adjustment. I’m reading that extreme FBAs create a bigger, nastier dart than a moderate adjustment would. Some choose to sew the dart closed, and others ease it out of the pattern. I think a dart would look funny and create stress on a knit garment…so extra work for me. But hey, I made a decent pocket!
Sorry to complain a lot. I just wish the world would accommodate my every need. I’m betting I’ll be able to full bustisize any pattern without a thought soon…it just seems annoying right now though. Why can’t I get my butt in gear?! At least once it’s done, I’ll have a perfect tank block. I wear the same t-shirts and tanks 99% of the time, so I’d like to have a good set of blocks for basic tops by next year. That’s the plan!
I wasn’t always interested in women’s sewing, kids clothes are cuter and more straightforward. Maybe I’m preparing for the inevitable. My little girl is starting to fit smaller women’s sizes in stores and patterns. At least by the time my baby niece decides to grow up, I’ll be a seasoned pro! I’ve been following more women’s wear sewing blogs. It helps to see that most of us have an adjustment or two that we make all the time, and it becomes second nature.
Here are a few blogs I’ve been loving. Some are seasoned women’s garment sewists, some are childrens clothing makers dipping their feet into selfish sewing, and some are masters of both worlds. I made a little graphic in case you want to pin it for later. These blogs are good reading, I promise.
Work Pray Sew– Angela mostly sews for her youngest daughter which appeases my desire for cuteness. But she’s also sort of eased me into sewing women’s wear. We joke that we like
boring basic clothing; ie highly functional wardrobes. She dabbles, now I dabble too. Check out some of her women’s projects here.
Megan Nielson Design Diary– Love her writing style. Really nice photos and in depth tutorials. She also designs edgy patterns that are feminine, with a sometimes vintage vibe. She isn’t trying to sell you something every minute, just sharing a love of sewing. That’s getting kinda rare among bloggers and designers.
Feather’s Flights- I started reading Heather’s blog for the cute kids clothes, but I’m seeing more women’s clothing than when I started reading a couple years ago. Perhaps I’m just paying more attention now that I’m tackling new things. Either way, I love her projects. I’d say Heather’s style perfectly toes the line of modest and stylish, and she veers towards classic pieces that won’t go out of style like fast trends.
Cookin’ & Craftin’ Meg sews mostly for herself, and it’s glorious. She makes wearable, well fitting clothing and has a collection of gorgeous fabrics from various places in the world that I’ve never been. You’ll see casual and dressier pieces, but on her most casual day she is dressed better way than me! You’ll fall in love with her contagious smile and witty posts.
Sew Country Chick- Justine is a badass. I said it. She’s not afraid to tear into leather working, fine silks, tricky sportswear…trying new things just doesn’t phase her. I love that she doesn’t jump off the cliff just because everyone else does; in fact she tends to march firmly in the opposite direction of the masses. You’ll find her studying old draping books and nearly extinct sewing techniques, and sourcing estate sales for fabric. She’s usually a few steps ahead of the sewing blog world, although I don’t think she quite realizes it.
Rebel & Malice- Melissa will keep you up on the latest patterns, but her punk rock, Latin flavor will make you look at them a different way. She has 5 beautiful kids that she sews for regularly, but I’ve been living for her selfish sewing. Her blog is a sewing chronicle with occasional glimpses of her life, and she’s quite endearing. You can count on her to voice her opinion, stand up for what she believes in, and to always stay rebellious.
I’m sure I’m missing out on any good blogs for women’s sewing. I haven’t been looking long enough! Do you have a favorite blog to share?